Ocean Hydrodynamics

Course Aim

To provide students with fundamental knowledge of ocean hydrodynamics and its applications to offshore and coastal processes, combining theory, experiments, and field observations.

Student Learning Outcomes

Upon successful completion of this course, students will be able to:
• Explain the fundamental principles of ocean hydrodynamics, including wave generation, propagation, dispersion, and transformation.
• Apply linear and nonlinear wave theories to analyze offshore and coastal wave processes.
• Assess coastal wave transformations, including shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and wave breaking.
• Analyze wave-structure and wave–current interactions and their relevance to offshore and coastal engineering applications.
• Describe key physical oceanographic processes, including ocean circulation, currents, tides, stratification, and air-sea interactions.
• Design and conduct laboratory experiments and apply appropriate measurement techniques to characterize waves and hydrodynamic processes.
• Interpret in-situ ocean measurements and observational data and connect them with theoretical models and laboratory observations (using small-scale wave tank apparatus as well as existing tank and buoy
data - complemented, if available by then, by large-scale wave-tank experiments).
• Integrate theoretical, experimental, and observational approaches to investigate practical problems in ocean science, offshore engineering, and coastal resilience.

Course Description

This course provides an introduction to the fundamental principles and applications of ocean hydrodynamics, bringing together theoretical concepts, laboratory experiments, field observations, and engineering applications. The course starts with the physical description of ocean waves, including linear and nonlinear wave theory, wave generation and propagation, dispersion, and the statistical description of ocean wave fields.
Offshore and coastal wave dynamics are then discussed, with a focus on important transformation processes such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and wave breaking, as well as the generation and evolution of extreme waves. Particular attention is given to wave-structure interaction, including wave loading, scattering, and the hydrodynamic response of offshore and coastal structures. Wave-current interactions and their effects on wave propagation, stability, and the formation of extreme events are also introduced.
The course also briefly covers selected aspects of physical oceanography, including ocean circulation, currents, tides, stratification, and air-sea interactions. Laboratory experiments are used to demonstrate some of the key hydrodynamic processes discussed in the lectures and to introduce commonly used measurement techniques, including wave gauges, particle-based flow measurements, and optical methods. In-situ ocean measurement techniques are also introduced, giving students an opportunity to work with and interpret real-world environmental data.
Overall, the course combines theory, experiments, and observations to provide students with a broad understanding of ocean hydrodynamics and its relevance to current problems in ocean science, offshore engineering, and coastal environments.

Course Contents

Ocean wave fundamentals; linear and nonlinear wave theory; offshore and coastal waves; wave transformation, shoaling and breaking; extreme and rogue waves; wave-structure interaction; wave-current interaction; fundamentals of physical oceanography; ocean currents and regional circulation, large-scale climate models such as ENSO, tides and stratification; air-sea interaction; laboratory experiments and measurement techniques; in-situ ocean observations and data analysis.

Assessment

Midterm 30%, Presence 20%, Oral Exam 50%

Prerequisites or Prior Knowledge

Basic knowledge of mathematics and physics is recommended. Familiarity with differential equations and fundamental concepts of mechanics is assumed. No prior knowledge of oceanography is required.

Textbooks

Holthuijsen, Leo H. Waves in oceanic and coastal waters. 2010.
Mei, Chiang C., Michael Aharon Stiassnie, and Dick K-P. Yue. Theory and applications of ocean surface waves: Part 1 & Part 2. 2005.
Dean, Robert G., Basic Wave Mechanics for Coastal and Ocean Engineers.1994.
Sarachik, Edward S., and Mark A. Cane. The El Nino-southern oscillation phenomenon. (2010).